Through April 29, 2007

Our exciting new exhibit on Guatemalan textiles opened to the public on October 14. Guatemala! Celebrations of Weaving showcases textiles made by women of the Mayan villages in Guatemala. The exhibit includes examples selected from 30 villages located throughout the country.

Man’s Sash, Ixil Maya Chajul, Department of El Quiché, 1990-1993 Photograph by Stahl PhotoGraphics.

For ages before the Spanish arrived in Guatemala in 1524, the Ancient Mayan people wore clothing that they made on backstrap looms. This tradition has survived with their descendants in the mainly rectangular handwoven garments worn today. These include a woman's upper body garment called a huipil, skirts that can be wrapped around the body or tubular ones that can be stepped into, utility cloths called servilletas for everyday use and for ceremonies, and men's or women's headcloths called tzutes. They also make men's kilts (rodilleras), men's pants, women's shawls (rebozos and perrajes), sashes, and hair ribbons, all woven by hand. Men from some villages also knit wool carrying bags for themselves and for their sons.

Child’s Huipil Ixil Maya Chajul, Department of El Quiché 1980s Photograph by Stahl PhotoGraphics.

The clothing items shown in this exhibit were chosen principally for their beauty. Some were woven for daily wear, but most are special garments made to wear to fiestas, to funerals, for masses and weddings, and for cofradía, the religious ceremony unique to Guatemalan Indians. The women spend extra time and effort on clothing that they and their family members can wear to these events, making it more elaborate than clothing for everyday wear.

Wedding Huipil, Cakchiquel Maya Patzún, Department of Chimaltenango, ca. 1962 Photograph by Stahl PhotoGraphics.

In the exhibit are woolen items worn by people who live in the higher elevations, and light weight items worn by people who live in the lowlands. An example of the latter is a Kekchi Maya huipil from Cobán in the Department (equivalent to our State) of Alta Verapaz. It is a thin, gauze-like weave which would be cool to wear. In contrast is a Chuj Maya boy's capixay, a small wool "overcoat" from the Department of Huehuetenango, which is in the mountainous part of the country.

Marimba de tecomates (gourd resonators), Quiché Maya Santo Tomás Chichicastenango, Dept. of El Quiché, 1930-1940

A unique "fun" headcloth is a Cakchiquel Maya example from San Antonio Aguas Calientes, Dept. of Sacatepéquez, which has fanciful designs of squirrels—the design motifs were published in a popular American needlepoint magazine from the 1950s. There will also be a Quiché Maya huipil from Zacualpa, in the Dept. of El Quiché, which has a bold and striking color combination of red and purple. The gorgeous cotton and silk huipil from Quezaltenango is worn for a wedding like a veil, with the neck opening framing the woman's face. It can also be worn in the normal manner, with her arms through the armholes, for cofradía.

The new exhibit also features the ethnographic photography of Payne Johnson. His photographs complement the textiles on display with views of the weavers at work. Photograph by Payne Johnson

Music is an essential component of all fiestas and religious events. Guatemalan music blends instruments and tunes from their Mayan ancestors with introduced forms derived from Europe. The special occasions of Guatemalan Indians are marked by the weaving together of music and the striking visual aspects of special clothing to produce celebrations of sight and sound that are not soon forgotten.

Guatemala! Celebrations of Weaving is on display through April 29, 2007, in Evernham Hall.

Photograph by Stahl PhotoGraphics.

—Linda Fisk
Registrar

Sponsored by:
	City of San Diego Commission for Arts and Culture
	County of San Diego Community Enhancement Program